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Archive for February, 2011

My Top 5 Mags: Oyster

Thursday, February 24th, 2011

Oyster magazine

Would you believe that Oyster magazine first came out in 1994?

To put this into perspective… Netscape 1.0, the first “World Wide Web” browser (y’know, on the “Information Superhighway”, in “Cyberspace”?) not necessitating a computer science degree came out in that same year, apartheid ended in South Africa, the Notorious B.I.G. released his presciently titled debut Ready to Die… and your humble scribe was in Grade 6 at Benalla East Primary School. In short, that’s an incredible achievement in the notoriously fickle world of fashion publishing.

We see a lot of publications come and go, but it’s astonishingly rare to see one that’s stuck around for 17 years and stayed so vital along the way. Since re-launching last year with a cover proclaiming PRINT IS DEAD! Oyster has cemented its position as one of our absolute favourite fashion titles… and proved that this little gem is very much alive and kicking.

We’re thrilled to have Alice Cavanagh, Imogene Barron, Shane Sakkeus and Anne Ryan here to tell us a little bit about the mags that inspire them…

1. Industrie – Alice Cavanagh, Editorial Director

Industrie magazine

The first magazine I have read from cover to cover in a long time; no skimming either! In-depth features offer great insight into the industry, and celebrate the individuals who are normally behind the scenes. Turns out some of them are more interesting than fashion’s biggest stars!

2. Purple Fashion – Imogene Barron, Fashion Director

Purple Fashion

Love the ever-amazing embossed covers and the French-sexiness of the shoots.

3. Vanity Fair – Shane Sakkeus, Creative Director

Vanity Fair magazine

Compulsory reading on any flight – it always makes Tiger Air Economy feel a touch more BA Business.

And Graydon Carter consistently has the World’s Best Hair to accompany his Editor’s Letter. Christopher Hitchens’ article “Why Women Aren’t Funny” is an all-time favourite of mine: mainly because the outrage it sparked proved his hypothesis better than he did.

4. Apartamento – Anne Ryan, Communications Director

As humans, we have have an innate desire to know how other people live. Much of Apartamento’s appeal lies here, but also in the way it is executed: because it seems so much more truthful than most of the images we are used to seeing in magazines. Very clever and very nice.

5. i-D – Imogene Barron, Fashion Director

I-D magazine

I-D has an ability to remain iconic, timeless and effortless.

They are experts at finding new ways to approach ideas and execute content. i-D exists at the centre of an amazing community of creatives, working with the best of the best contributors without excluding emerging talent, and has been doing so for 30 years! Plus, those cheeky one-eye covers never grow tired!

Some more thoughts on the woes of Red Group

Monday, February 21st, 2011

Much of the news coverage surrounding Borders/A&R/Whitcoulls going into voluntary administration has focused on the woes of booksellers facing the triple threat of e-readers, deep discounting from off-shore online retailers and a strong Australian dollar.  With this in mind, we were interested to see an article in The Age on Friday about Readings, the Melbourne-based independent bookstore that has been trading in Carlton since 1969.

When a Borders store opened up directly across the street from Readings in 2001 it struck alot of people that this was the beginning of the end for the independent book seller. (Many of my friends from Uni at the time even embarked upon an extended shoplifting spree at Borders “in protest”. Students, eh?)

Staff working there recall a thick sense of gloominess pervading their spirits. ”It was like our business was going to be halved and we were all going to lose our jobs,” said former sales clerk Adam Carey, now an Age reporter. ”But it never panned out that badly. I’d come to believe that there was room enough for both businesses.”

So… why has Readings continued to prosper as Borders struggles?

Like many other small stores across the world, Readings have realised that they can’t necessarily compete with the online giants on range or on price. In fact, most of their books are sold at RRP, which in extreme cases is as much as double the price of some of their online competitors and often a few dollars more than at the at the Borders store across the road.

Instead, Readings have positioned themselves not so much as a vast, aeroplane hangar sized repository of books so much as a dedicated band of fellow book lovers.

They don’t try to sell every book under the sun but they do stock the best, most interesting and beautiful tomes around and hire passionate staff to help you find exactly what you need. They offer a huge amount of knowledge and customer service and furthermore, they’ve focused on hosting in-store events and readings, producing a fantastic monthly newsletter and generally working to foster a sense of community around the store. All things Borders, A&R and Co. don’t do.

In a world where any one of millions of books are available at a few mouse clicks away, a bookstore which has just 30,000 books (apparently the inventory at a Borders store) actually doesn’t seem as exciting or appealing as it once did. In fact, customers are often looking for just the opposite: a tightly edited, highly curated range without any of the dreck to get in the way.

As traditional retailers continue to struggle to work out a way to compete with online I suspect we’re going to see ever more of these small-scale, niche ‘curatorial commerce’ stores continuing to spring up to occupy the void that the online experience just cannot fill.

What do you guys reckon? We’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below.

A bad day for print

Friday, February 18th, 2011

Sad news yesterday for book and magazine lovers in Australia and New Zealand, as the parent company of Borders, Angus and Robertson and Whitcoulls announced that it was going into voluntary administration.

It’s important to note here that this doesn’t necessarily mean that these stores are shutting down. More than anything it means that they’ve acknowledged that something is seriously wrong with their business and that they need to take some drastic measures to turn it around.

Thanks to everyone who tweeted, e-mailed and called… but contrary to popular belief, we’re not rejoicing. As far as we’re concerned any book store shutting down anywhere is pretty much always a bad thing. We love books and we love bookstores and their presence is absolutely good for the publishing industry as a whole.

Other than the fact that 2,500 jobs might be lost, which is a massive deal in itself, it is bad for the magazine industry. Borders (and to a lesser extent Whitcoulls) make up part of our competitive landscape. Competition is a good thing: it keeps us on our toes and forces us to innovate. But, even more importantly, it stimulates demand. We don’t (and can’t!) have the far-flung geographic presence that Angus & Robertson or Whitcoulls has. If those stores close, it means that lots of folks will no longer have access to all the awesome magazine titles that we love. While many of you will think that this is a great thing for mag nation, as it means that more sales will come our way, this is very much a short-term perspective.

Many of the customers who buy these niche mags will simply stop buying. This is a disaster for the niche publisher, who sells a lot of magazines through us, but who also sells a lot through our competitors. If these customers simply drop out of the market, the publishers lose, which puts pressure on their business model, which in turn impacts us. Not to mention the residents of Tuggerah in New South Wales or Chermside in Queensland, just some of the 26 locations serviced by Borders stores across Australia.

So, you can see that it is not as simple as smugly smiling at the woes of a competitor. Not that we would do that anyway, but life is a little more complicated. This doesn’t mean that we won’t think aggressively about how to woo their customers. Competition is competition and magazines make up only a small part of their overall business.

Yet, even if we have the boxing gloves on, winning on points in this instance is better than a knock out punch.

Our packaging dilemma

Tuesday, February 8th, 2011

Our online subscription service really began as a bit of an afterthought.

And it certainly started out slowly enough: one staff member at our Melbourne CBD store would send out packages for half an hour a day in between serving customers, making coffee and unpacking deliveries.

Fast forward three years and we’re in the fortunate position where things have got a little bit bigger. Don’t get me wrong—we’re still tiny compared to most of our competitors, but, well, that one staff member now works full time just sending out packages.

And at this point, we’re beginning to grow to a point where the systems we had in place when we started out don’t really work like they used to. We’re beginning to experience the kind of teething problems that happen as any venture expands beyond its infancy. In this regard, we’re fortunate to have really vocal and passionate customers who will readily engage with us in-store, over e-mail and Twitter. And increasingly we’re getting a lot of feedback about the envelopes that we send out our mags in, suggesting that they don’t really cut the mustard.

One of the big issues is that the postie is pretty much determined to try and stuff magazines right into your letterbox. In some ways, this is a blessing (imagine having to go to the post office to pick up every single issue of your subscription!) but also a bit of a curse as well—in addition to often arriving a little bit bent, your mags also sometimes get rained on, sticking out of the letterbox.

To address that problem in particular, we bought about 100,000 zip-lock plastic bags (okay, slight exaggeration but definitely lots and lots of them) in which we seal each and every magazine inside to give them a bit of protection against the elements. It’s not ideal, but it does the job.

We’ve also noticed that our current paper envelopes really don’t look like they’re up to the stress of all the handling involved in moving mail across the country and around the world. Every day, we get a big delivery from the post office of returned packages; these are from customers who have moved and haven’t updated their address with us or who gave us the wrong address in the first place, etc. And to be honest, they’re scuffed and sometimes torn and generally just look a bit of a mess, so they can’t look that much better when they reach you the first time around.

What’s the solution? To be honest, we’re not entirely sure.

We absolutely don’t want to keep sending out thousands of zip-lock bags destined for landfill pits (although my Mum re-uses hers in the kitchen—good on ya Mum!) and we have similar reservations about padded post-packs. We need to come up with something that’s not only tough, but also waterproof and environmentally friendly.

One option that we’ve been considering is waxed, high-GSM recycled card envelopes, kind of like FedEx pouches. Or even bio-degradable plastic sleeves or recyclable plastic like high-density polyethylene. (Yes, I’ve spent more time looking up different plastics on Wikipedia and examining their relative merits vis a vis recyclability in recent days than I ever really imagined that I would in this life.)

We’re still plotting our next move here, but look forward to getting some great new envelopes—of one kind or another—really soon.

If you’ve got any ideas, comments, questions or suggestions, we’d love to hear ‘em!